21 Sep Emerging Trends: London Fashion Week SS24

As part of the service provided by FEL to the FCDW designers the team from marketing comprising of Leah, Jasmine, Rishita, Jo and Beth provide trend reports and narrative on the LFW event. This is an additional service provided by FEL for the workspace program as a guide for future collection creation. 

Paul Costelloe

The Paul Costelloe show embraced the quintessential Spring/Summer season. Titled “Il Giardino” the collection was all breezy maxi dresses, lightweight summer suits and mini dresses. Featuring cottons, knits, lace and chiffons that conjured up scenes of croquet on the lawn in some far-flung Italian villa. Working new angles into classic shapes the collection included plenty of Costelloe flourishes, such as frills, ruffles, pleating, bows and drape in hues of white, china blue, navy, cream and oatmeal.

FJU Talents

FJU Talents showcased the capsule collections of Chiang Wen Hsuan, Chen You Chen, Allison Tsoi and Chen Yi Xuan, along with a 10-look group show from the FJU Department of Textiles and Clothing. Although multiple designers were presenting on the runway, there was one common theme among many of the designs – cutout. One designer in particular, Allison Tsoi, had a unique take on the cutout theme by using two-tone knitwear to achieve draped, sculptural cutouts and new forms.

Digital Fashion Week

An extensive list of digital designers took to the Digital Fashion Week catwalk to show physical garments created from their digital designs.

The event featured a floor-to-ceiling screen to display the digital concepts which then physically emerged on live models.

The highlight was to see Stephy Fung’s debut with PhygitalTwin founder, Louise Laing. We have partnered with Louise and Stephy on this project with the help of Kornit Printer to bring her 3D design to life. Once the design was printed using our very own Kornit printers here in Haringey, they were constructed by our ‘on-demand’ production team in the FEL factory!

It was amazing to see the full journey of digital design come to life and walk down the runway.

Dreaming Eli

Deathly gorgeous is the only way to describe Dreaming Eli by Elisa’s latest collection ‘Wild Hearts Bleed’. The presentation opened with Ballet dancer Cat Lawther gliding over the stone-paved floor dress in a flowing cream and red-tipped dress. Cat gracefully enraptured the audience as she flew up and down the runway twisting and turning.

The first look perfectly summarised the collection, with a pale pink dress layered over a corset bodice, laced at the front with trailing icicles of mesh dotting the skirt. Dreaming Eli’s signature neckline of crossed, expanding material was accompanied with lace gloves and long trailing ties complimenting the mesh skirt.

The following looks were a river of nude, black, pink and cream lace. From dainty camisoles to structured billowing sleeves, Elisa’s SS24 collection powerfully portrayed her ethics of female empowerment, particularly giving strength to femininity and ‘the experience of a submissive as well as passionate womanhood.’ 

It was amazing to see the collection developed, sampled and fitted at the FC Designer Workspace and the FEL team are thrilled that Elisa’s brand truly go noticed in this intimate and atmospheric show.

J-E-Cai

J-E-Cai’s component-based designs have perfectly executed how to design a garment made to layer. Built on a modular system formed of bases and components connected through fastenings means that these clever designs can be worn in a number of ways. The overall aesthetic of the collection is clean-lined and structured in a palette of grey, muted blue, cream and black.

KWK by Kay Kwok

The fashion crowd were astounded this season with otherworldly sculptural designs by KWK by Kay Kwok. His Chapter 4 collection, seasons need not apply here, was created using 3D software and took expression and form into a futuristic and genderless arena. 

Albarella

Albarella’s presentation was very intimate with each attendee receiving a guided tour of the pieces from a brand rep. The concept behind the latest collection was about turning ‘Horny Banker’ clothes into sexy, queer items as a statement to the president of Italy. Albarella has adapted the simple tie into a twist front feature for a sleeveless top and re-worked traditional attire into sexy, night-out designs in sheer chiffons, satins, sequins and cottons.

NOKI

Noki’s show was almost completely made from upcycled pieces. Some looks included obscure upcycled materials such as a Co-op reusable bags and bright orange curlers. As ever, Noki incorporates a generous amount of fun Disney-themed looks, such as a pop art steamboat willie maxi dress and a head-to-toe Donald Duck-themed look. What is interesting about Noki’s use of materials is they are not designer, luxe materials, but second-hand clothes / fabrics that anyone can find. Noki has a very unique way of deconstructing and combing these finds and is a brilliant advocate for upcycling / recycling for all.

10 Emerging Fashion Week Trends

1 – Wide-leg trousers

2 – Maxi lengths

3 – Lace and Broderie Anglaise

4 – Exaggerated shoulders

5 – Monochrome

6 – Frills and ruffles

7 – Upcycled designs

8 – Cutouts

9 – Bare midriffs

10 – Shades of blue

FEL CEO Jenny Holloway commented: “At FEL we have always excelled at combining industry with the learning environment. I’ve spoken to many learners, apprentices and designers that really appreciate reviews on the very latest in trends in terms of colour, style, fabric and print.

“A big thank-you to the marketing team that attended and reported back and to catwalk photographer Chris Daw.”

As part of the service provided by Fashion-Enter Ltd to the FC Designer Workspace designers the team from marketing, comprising of Leah, Jasmine, Rishita, Jo and Beth, provide trend reports and narrative on the LFW event. This is an additional service provided by Fashion-Enter Ltd for the Workspace programme as a guide for future collection creation.