13 Mar Learn From the Experts: The Art of Draping with Ismail Erbil

As part of our Social Value Fashion-Enter Ltd (FEL) tries hard to expand the skillset of the local community by offering a wide range of courses that can develop the skills of Islington residents. 

Draping is an art form and Ismail Erbil, FEL’s tutor and long-established designer, knows all about draping. Ismail commented: “I have worked in draping for the best part of twenty-years first with my own collection and then I was a tutor at the London College of Fashion for ten years. Draping takes real in-depth knowledge to understand how the pattern or sillhoutte of a garment can be formed. I completed my two courses at FEL and this really gave me the impetus to start teaching again. I am very grateful to FEL for giving me this chance. The courses have been excellently received.” 

Draping is the process of pinning and then positioning the fabric on a mannequin, or form, and can be used to create a pattern or to design organically by developing the garment on the stand. This is exactly what Ozzie Clarke did back in the 70s and 80s, he would lock himself up for three days and create the most amazing garments. He had to work in peace and quiet and be left to his own devices. 

Ozzie would work the fabric directly on the mannequin and with every adjustment made he would draft the garment to make a pattern based on the measurements. Toiling is normally in calico or canvas but any fabric can be used; muslin or georgette is always popular for their draping properties. 

Erbil spends considerable time with the symmetry and the design, using draping on one side of the garment or both. All seams, pleats and other design features have to be carefully annotated and then transferred onto the markings of spot and cross paper. After transferring all the markings Ismail will always critically check that the curves are correctly aligned and the seams are matching. 

The last step is to add the seam allowances and ensure that the pattern is fully ready to make the first prototype sample. This course has taken over 32 hours with Ismail and 8 hours to prepare for the first trial – FEL hopes to continue with the draping next month in April at the FC Designer Workspace.. Ismail achieved an accomplished 68/70 for this course. 

If you would like to know more about Ismail’s Draping sessions contact: education@fashion-enter.com